TEDxSingapore: The Roving Library Launch

Uncovering Forgotten Stories With a Food Historian

On 18th July 2024,

we launched a new salon series called “The Roving Library”, dedicated to celebrating the vibrant and diverse local literature scene. We want to spotlight storytellers in our community – authors, poets, and playwrights, who have significantly contributed to the rich tapestry of the nation's literary landscape, and told stories that our community can pass on.

We had Khir Johari, award-winning author of “The Food of Singapore Malays”, join us in our celebration of local stories. We could not think of a better way to kick start this series than to talk about a subject closest to Singaporeans’ hearts – food. Alongside his homemade kueh and some coffee from our partner Sojourner Coffee, the 18th of July saw lively conversations and thoughtful reflections on the food history of local dishes and its implications for the way we regard Singapore’s identity pre-1819 and pre-1965. 

Stories that were left behind: Unveiling hidden histories

Through the lens of food, Khir’s storytelling often uncovers lesser-known aspects of Singapore’s cultural and historical landscape. During his fireside chat, Khir unveiled a myriad of stories and discoveries, accumulated over his years of researching and writing “The Food of Singapore Malays” that profoundly changed his understanding of not only the Malay community, but also of the Singaporean identity. His stories are not just about one community, but of the multiple threads that weave through the diverse communities that make up the identity of our nation. 

Khir changed the way we see common landmarks in Singapore. We can no longer see Fort Canning for instance, as just a WWII military fortress. Its history transcends the 20th century; it was the royal orchard garden of the five Malay kings who once ruled during the 14th century. Royal family members from Pelembang would also often travel through Singapore. This opens up our eyes to the hidden stories about the older Singapore kingdom and its link to the whole Indonesian archipelago. Singapore may not have just been a sleepy fishing village after all! 

Stories of localisation: Cultural evolution and modern identity

Khir talked about how food recipes always evolve; they morph as they get passed down from generation to generation or when they reach different countries and need to adapt to new conditions like missing ingredients or different cooking techniques. As such, foods are the product of overlapping and interconnected histories.

For example, Kek Lapis, not to be confused with Kueh Lapis, incorporates the Western technique of baking, which is very different from the traditional Malay technique of making desserts by steaming. By combining local flavours such as cardamom and cinnamon with the Western concept of a cake batter, the influences of colonisation have been infused into the everyday lived practices of local people. 

Khir also illuminated that beyond the influence of colonisation, the foods we find in Singapore are also the culmination of various regional influences. The Siam in Mee Siam can be traced back to the Kingdom of Siam, thus extending our understanding of Singapore’s history beyond our shores and into the regional geographies of even Thailand. This all goes to show how intricately connected our region is and reminds us of the potential of food to unite across geopolitical boundaries. 

Stories we must tell: Intergenerational storytelling

Khir’s meticulous research and documentation of Malay food recipes, and his passion for sharing them is testament to his dedication to the preservation and sharing of oral histories. He reminds us of the importance of remembering and reconstructing memories to retain our connection with our ancestors. 

It is such stories – stories of hope and of discovery – that the TEDxSingapore team behind “The Roving Library” wish to share with our community. It is through such a platform where we hope the voices of Singapore’s literary community can be heard, celebrated and preserved for future generations.

Click here to view photos from the launch event: https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBAUiP

About

"The Roving Library" celebrates our vibrant local literature scene, spotlighting authors, poets, and playwrights who enrich our community with their stories. Each session features intimate discussions, readings, and performances to deepen appreciation of Singapore's literary arts, creating a platform to honour and preserve our literary voices for future generations.